Tuesday, May 12, 2009

Finals Week at Tumtum

Got out on Monday of finals week with Brian Veseth and Kaiya. It was our two year anniversary on Monday so we decided to spend it climbing, of course. With a torrential downpour all the way there, we were a bit skeptical of the conditions for the rest of the day, but were pleasantly suprised when after about 1030 all was well and scattered clouds gave way to sunshine and good temps. Brian scored a quick ascent of Dyno Guys Demise, a V5/6 traverse into the Tap Dance Arete, Kaiya managed to repeat Thrutchy Madness for the camera, and I did a first go repeat of The Thin Line, a V9/10 that I put up last time I was there. Kaiya put down her longest project, the Polish Pimp Slap, a V5 that is very height/lockoff dependent, after 4 days of effort. I came so close to sending Ode to Modern Bland, the sit start to Soul to Squeeze that clocks in around V13 or harder, but then I broke off the crux hold, a crimper that is the right hand start hold for the V10. It is about 1/8 of an inch thick, and is now half as big. Oh well. We headed up to the "Other Spot" as I have dubbed it, to shoot some video, and for me to send Point Your Finger (V11/12). I had tried it 3 days before and could not stick the crux moves at all, but a quick beta change and I was able to stick the huge (read: full span with a left heel hook) lock off and bump once, and managed to hang on for the send. Wasn't able to get vid of that since Brian and Kaiya both had to spot pretty actively. If you fall to the left, landing is a large steep rock and to the right is a downhill slope full of all sorts of fun things to land on, so nobody to run the camera...next time. Everyone had a good day, Brian sent 4 problems, Kaiya sent her project, and I was able to get some video and photos (soon to come, kinda busy with finals and all that). Off to Leavenworth this weekend and next week to send the Practicioner and hopefully a slew of other stuff that I couldn't do last time. For now, here is the vid from Monday!!! Happy climbing

Finals Fest from Mike Bockino on Vimeo.